Slovenia had been on my list for years. It has been whispered about by well-travelled friends who always seemed to run out of superlatives before they ran out of stories. This summer I finally went to see for myself and I can report that every whisper was an understatement! What an incredible country. We were lucky enough to explore a few corners of this central European country, moving from Michelin-starred tables to mountain forts, from glassy lake mornings to wartime ridgelines. Here are my top ten places from the week in Slovenia I simply cannot stop thinking about.
HIŠA LINHART
Tucked into the pretty town of Radovljica, Hiša Linhart is primarily a hotel, but it has a Michelin-starred dining room attached that exudes a quiet confidence. We spent our first evening here, where regional ingredients are treated with the kind of reverence I so admire in a kitchen. It is the sort of meal that makes you sit up a little straighter: considered and hearty. I could not have asked for a finer welcome.
RAFTING THE SAVA RIVER
There is no better way to see a landscape than from the middle of it and we found ourselves on the Sava, paddling through water so clear and so improbably turquoise it hardly seemed real. Two and a half hours of alpine scenery unspooling on either side with the current doing most of the talking. Towards the end of the journey, we jumped right into the river and swam downstream alongside the rafts which was so refreshing and welcoming – I highly recommend trying for yourself, and if I can get in anyone can! This was my two teenage boys’ favourite activity of them all and it was an absolutely joyful way to spend a Sunday morning – precisely the sort of adventure I love to fold into a trip.
FORT KLUŽE & FORT HERMANN
The history in Slovenia is carved into the mountainsides but it is especially steeped in the World War Two efforts across Europe. The hike up from Fort Kluže to Fort Hermann was not a long one, but it was a steep and satisfying scramble that delivers you, rather breathlessly, to a fortress and bunkers with commanding views over the Soca Valley. These stone bastions have a raw beauty that no amount of curation could ever replicate. I find it incredibly important to have an element of history or education in the travels I complete with our sons. The best way to learn about something is to be immersed in it and this was one of those occasions.
KOLOVRAT WW1 OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Higher still, along the ridge above Livške Ravne, the Kolovrat museum traces the old front lines of the First World War through trenches and dugouts left largely as they were found. It is a moving place and one I would urge anyone travelling this region to seek out. There is a particular kind of beauty in landscapes that carry their history so visibly, and this one left a lasting impression on me.
LJUBLJANA OLD TOWN & CASTLE
Apparently no visit to Slovenia is complete without a wander through Ljubljana, and I gave myself an entire afternoon to do just that. Many struggle with how to pronounce the name of this place and I am pleased to have mastered it (loo-bee-aa-nuh). The Old Town is a delight of pastel façades, riverside cafés and cobbled lanes that climb up to the grand old castle keeping watch above it all and there is a funicular for those looking for a more leisurely pace. I do love a city that rewards gentle exploration and this city is exactly that sort of place thanks to its compact layout full of charm and character, with incredible hospitality establishments across hotels and restaurants.
Of everything on this trip the Škocjan Caves was by far the most staggering and this is one that is not to be missed. We were all speechless, having never witnessed anything quite like the atmosphere within. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the guided tour leads you through vast subterranean chambers and across a bridge suspended high above an underground canyon carved by the Reka River. It is theatrical in the truest sense and really is nature at its most dramatic – a must do.
MIRAMARE CASTLE
A slight detour and short 35 minute drive from the Caves, across the border into Italy brought us to Miramare – the white castle perched above the Adriatic near Trieste. This has been on my list for a while as my Father and I both adore the Netflix series ‘The Empress’ surrounding the life of Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi) and this Castle was built by order of her brother in-law Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian in the nineteenth century. Its interiors are a masterclass in romantic historicism, and the gardens tumbling down to the sea are simply lovely to wander through at golden hour. It felt a fitting, elegant pause between two very different Slovenian landscapes.
GARDEN VILLAGE BLED
Elevated among the pines with the lake glinting below, nothing beat our treehouse at Garden Village Bled. I was in awe of the sustainable design and consideration across the lodgings, and its proof that considering the environment does not need to sacrifice one ounce of comfort or charm. My favourite part of the stay was the incredible natural pool teeming with wildlife like tadpoles and frogs. I found myself endlessly admiring the craftsmanship with timber, glass and light all working in perfect harmony with the forest around it. Another highlight was sleeping with all the windows and doors completely open – and no mosquitoes!
LAKE BLED BY BOAT
I think we are all very familiar with the image of the little church on the island that Lake Bled is famous for, and there is no finer way to reach it than by boat, rowed gently across still water. We took our time across the glassy water which was a beautiful shade of turquoise (one of my favourites) while we simply admired the view of the castle above and the mountains beyond. We once again jumped in to enjoy the refreshing water – but one tip for anyone in the same position: make sure someone stays in the boat so you can get back on board! We managed, though, with a rather hilarious scramble and some questionable displays of flexibility. Towards the end we paused to watch twelve paragliders overhead. Once we arrived, we were invited to ring the church’s bell three times for luck. It is a scene I imagine has changed very little in a hundred years, and long may it stay that way.
VINTGAR GORGE
We closed our final full day with a walk through Vintgar Gorge, where wooden walkways cling to the cliffside above the racing, crystal turquoise blue Radovna River. It is sold as a short, easy walk but in reality is around two to three hours and not for the fainthearted. Make sure to bring your own water supply as there is nothing en route and I do not recommend wearing flip flops like I did! A magical spot and the kind of place that reminds you why Slovenia so quietly captures the hearts of those who find their way here. It was, I think, the perfect final flourish to an unforgettable week.
Slovenia has a way of surprising you at every turn – with its water, its history, its craftsmanship and its extraordinary natural drama. We had a packed itinerary, but there was so much more to discover that remains on my list (like the world’s longest zip line!) I left with a suitcase full of memories and, if I am honest, already planning my return.
Wishing you a wonderful weekend,
Katharine
